Tips for Ladakh

Here is some advice for travel in ladakh arising from my experience there.

1) If you are flying in - rest 48hrs. If you are coming in by road, rest 36 hours. Do not ignore this. Even if you feel fine, you are not. Use these two days to walk around town, browse through shops, and most importantly, get the inner line permit which you will be needing to go to Nubra and Pangong later. Make atleast 8 copies of this permit as it is to be handed over at various check points.

2) Guest Houses. There is no shortage of Guest Houses in Leh. I have personal reviews for the following.

Asia Guest House:
Rs. 600 for double room. Nice blankets, nice view, polite people(thats true all over ladakh)
Hot water 24 hrs, clean western toilets. A 15-20 mins walk from the main bazaar.
Distance and cost are the cons here.

Ti-Sei Guest House
In the alleys on the right of Jigmet Guest House(a famous one) is tucked away this new quiet place.
Rs. 400 for double room. Rooms are quite nice with huge windows, bathrooms clean, hot water at specific times of day(ask in advance) The people here are very nice too.
It is very quiet here and the place is 3-5 mins walk from main bazaaar.
This happens to be my recommendation. I loved this place.

Shanti guest house (near shanti stupa)
Rs 200-250 for single room. Hot water, private bath. According to sources this is the cheapest and best but it is about half hour walk from main bazaar.

3) Activities:

a) 2 Nights 3 Days Jeep Safari to Nubra Valley - Rs. 7000 for jeep for entire trip. Can be comfortably shared between 6 people (one with driver in front, three in middle row, 2 in back row)

Leh - Khardungla - Diskit - Hunder - Summur - Panamik - Leh

I recommend stay at Hunder first night and Summur the second night. Guest houses listed in Lonely Planet are usually full and also not as nice as some of the new ones. Just drive around a bit and try to find a new looking guest house. Try not to let the driver take you to wherever he wishes. Be firm on driving around a bit.

There is nothing much to do here except watch the awesome landscape and feel the silence. (And of course more GOmpas :) )Take walks. Im Summur we were dropped by jeep to the monastery but we walked on the way back. Enquire about availability of beer in guesthouses. The caretakers can usually bring it in from the market or from another guest house for you. ;)

b) Jeep safari / motorbike trip to Pangong Lake/ Tso Moriri Lake.
I hear the tso moriri is better but Pangong is closer. Pick your pick.

c) Rafting n Indus: The season had not started when we were there. If grade 3+ is not started yet, I would not recommend the lower grade. Try your luck

d) Day Trip to Hemis. We stopped in Thiksey Monastery on the way and it was awesome. I hear Shey is also good. On this trip, stop to eat at Karu ( just before hemis)

e) Mountain biking : You can rent mountain bikes at many places in Leh. There is also a place in the main square which oeganises downhill biking from Khardung La to Leh (Uphill journey on Jeep) for 700-900 Rs. per person.

f) Trekking: For people with more time lots of trekking options are available

4) Food:

World Garden Cafe - Above average pizzas. I hear the chicken tikka, esp the one with white gravy, is also good. ;)

KC bar and restaurant - look out for this happening place with live soccer. Music and comedy shows are also projected on the big screen. Fires are lit every night. Place starts to fill up by about 8:30. Grab a seat early. Kingfisher is available for Rs. 120. Food is good too. We liked the french fries(with beer) and the shahi paneer with naan. Other stuff on other peoples tables also looked good.

Himalayan Cafe - This sparkling new place in the farther side of main bazaar had excellent food. I had a veg burger which was great. Nutella pancake was also good.

Booklovers Retreat in Changspa - Just okay food, cakes when fresh(count the number of slices remaining) are good. Ambiance is nice. Isrealy b/f is good. Books for sale and to read.

Zen Garden Cafe - Nice atmosphere. Next to the stream. Passable thai food. Did not like the cannelloni.

Will add more as i remember and have the time :)